Loop connectors
Do-it-yourself cheap and 100% proof braided loop connectors.
by M. Sammicheli
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Among the diffrent ways of connecting the fly line with the backing and the leader the loop connector are easy and quick to be used, effective and strong  if well made.
Building a braided mono loop connector is easy and a lot less expensive than buying commercial loops. Using a loop to connect the various line system sections have evident advantages over a simple knot. It's obvious that the angler can change a leader or a tippet or a fly line quickly and without the need of tying a single knot. 
A very good way to build loops in the fly line is to double it using two 0,25 mm. nylon mono, tube nail knots. If not well mounted the connector can fail and probably this will happen when you fight a large fish.
The trick to be sure of the loop strength is simple but needed to have a good result. 
Never use connectors with only a plastic leave to hold them, even if one that is treated with heat to hold better. 
Don't trust a drop of glue. 
You need both building a strong loop and do the right "serving", binding the braid and the fly line ( 8). 
The chinese finger effect is responsible of most of the holding power of braided connectors but to perform well you need to bind the braid over the fly line to avoid it open and slip off. 
When the loop is pulled the braid squeeze the line and hold better. 
Many mono knots along the connector are negative for the chinese finger effect. 
The best solution is a single binding point at the end of the braid. 
My preferred serving is done with two consecutive small tube nail knots. 
Another method is to use a fly tying thread, spinning the spool around the line. 
A drop of flexible glue over the knots is a good finish for smoothness and resistance to abrasion.
To have a better energy transfer without interruptions you can peel off the fly lime plastic coating to have a short section of the inner braid exposed. 
With a doubled steel wire insert the line in the connector. 
The uncoated section of line must enter the inner braid of the loop (4). 
To build the connector use the same doubled steel wire.
A good spooled material is the Gudebrod (35 and 50 lb). 
You must pass the braid in itself two times to have the full strenght (1-2). 
Start with the wire going away from the braid's tag end and insert the standing braided line inside (2 cm.).
Then insert the wire 2 cm below the tag base in the longer line, exit near the exit point of the first insertion, thread the short  tag end and pull it inside and out. 
The intersections can be 2 cm long and you must leave 7-8 cm of single braid to insert the fly line. 
Don't coat all the connection with any glue. 
Only apply a some flexible glue on the serving and if you like it in a small point of doubled braid near to the loop. 
Don't use super glue over the braid because the braid can break with the rigid and fragile cured glue. 
You can use the loop connectors also for mono running lines and backing also if it's not really needed. For these thin lines leave a longer (double) braid section to insert the line. 
You can build a bimini twist and then slip the doubled line inside a loop connector.

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