The first time
we heard about Ebro estuary was two years ago. We saw it in mags, web sites,
TV documentary and, little by little, our desire to try the adventure grew.
Surely we are not talking about exotic destinations, or long travels
to other continents but about a place easy to reach from Italy also with
a car.
The travel it's not short...you must cross France and part of Spain
but the more than 10 hours drive pass fast talking about fishing with your
travel friends and with some short stops. The road is good and easy to
follow and the indications precise. The only drawback is the "Peage” (toll).
It seems that France and Spain agreed to make this very unpleasant. The
cost is normal but not the toll stations frequency. Enough to drive the
driver out of his mind. Tolls everywhere, like an highway game of goose.
Expect about 15 toll stations. At the end you will hate that signal and
will start to see it everywhere.
After the long drive
we reach Deltebre (la Cava).
The place seems to be promising. The marshes alternate with cultivate
fields of vivid colors. There is a lot of migratory birds and the
place looks still wild.
Our accomodation is the Paca Hotel only a few hundred meters from the
Garbì dock (the boat rental service)
The hotel is clean, with very friendly hosts, with excellent cuisine
and a very well furnished wine cellar. We suggest to taste the “Vina
Esmeralda” a fruity withe wine, very delicate, that leave your mouth full
of reminiscences. In Spain you can't loose the famous Paella, the
true one, the “Marinera”, very well cooked in Paca hotel.
So it is our first
fishing day.
At 9.30 am. we are at the Garbì dock ready and with loaded weaphons.
Maybe you wonder why so late in the morning. Not because we like to rise
late but because there the gulls raise late and work until late afternoon.
Fish start breaking the surface at 10 am. and go on until 3-4 pm.
with no pause.
At 10 am. we leave the dock with our guide Juan and we head for the
40 m. bathymetric. After a few minutes we start to see fish chasing preys
on the surface. They are not very concentrated because the anchovies schools
are scattered along a wide but thin front. We start to catch the first
mackerels and chub mackerels and we are impressed by their size, 40 to
45 cm. with some specimen weighting around 1 kg
With two of them
hooked at the same time on the same rod (we used a 9’#9 and a sinking
tip 300 grains line) it's a pleasure… they pull really strong until boated.
Our guide said the late in the season, in october, they catch some in the
1.5 kg range. The first day have been rich and our balance is a lot of
mackerels and chub mackerels and some frigate mackerel (bullet tuna) that
there is called "Melba”.
Back at the dock we find the usual leerfish or amberjack caught with
live or dead baitfish by some angler from Germany (they call it “alemanno”).
Then at the hotel, after a cold beer, we bring our rods in our room
leaving them rigged and we enjoy a rich dinner before to go to sleep.
The second fishing day were very similar to the first one with abundance
of catches of mackerels and chub mackerels and with occasional frigate
mackerels. The best thing were a large front (about 60 m long) of breaking
fish, due to the many anchovies scools attacked simultaneously.
The third fishing
day were important because for the first time we fished without a guide.
We go. A few minutes to take confidence with the boat and we are ready.
The day seems to be a good one but the " mangianze" (schools of gamefish
chasing baitfish, breaking the surface ) are sporadic and fast. In the
morning we asked at the hotel for a dinner with “Paella” and a pair of
“Vina Esmeralda” bottles like expecting for something to celebrate. After
two hours of the same fishing we start moving in a path along a 34 to 37
meters bathymetric and we find another "mangianza" but after several casts
we catch nothing. The fish seems to be smart and picky but we keep trying
and we find the answer. The aren't mackerels but bonitos. I catch the first
one that make three or four runs and pull some ten meters of backing off
of my reel and fight for some minutes before to be weighted at slightly
more than 3 kg on my bogagrip.
After less than
10 minutes also Adolfo catch one. The fish start slowly, it don't seems
to be a bonito but in a few seconds it show all its strenght. After a good
fight it's boated and weights at 3.4 kg. My friends have a smile in his
face that show all his joy. We are satisfied but keep fishing until 5 pm..
When we arrive at the dock we find a 2 kg. bass caught in the afternoon
inside the estuary, literally cut in half by a large bluefish.
At the hotel we enjoy our paella and the wonderful “Vina Esmeralda”
and we give to the chef the fillets of our larger bonito for the next day's
dinner.
You can ask to have your catches cooked and in the previous dinners
we just tasted some very good mackerel's sushi.
The next days had
the same "menu" with mackerels, "melba" and bonitos and some interesting
bonus species. One morning we found a large "mangianza" and among the many
breaking fish some wonderful Mediterranean spearfish appeared. We stopped
the boat and tried to cast for the spearfish but with no results. The positive
side is that fishing is very varied and at every cast you can catch something
new.
There, it's very important to care about this chance. In Liguria (Italy)
we use to catch mostly frigate mackerels fishing the "mangianze" but in
the Ebro's estuary it's not rare to encounter some very large fish. Our
fishing week had very hot weather and water, like in tropical seas ( 27°
to 29°). Obviously in this condition the large predators reduce their
activity and are more responsive to meaty and easy preys (live baitfish).
It's always possible to encounter the “palometon”, the local name for leerfish,
and the record catch can be done but it's not easy.
We spent most of our afternoons searching palometon (those weighting
10/15 kg). Afternoons spent casting monster poppers 15/20 cm. long, and
when tired we trolled enormous flies.
Saturday was our
last fishing day.
We urged to have an unforgettable day. The luck helped us for this
with the gift of a day full of emotions.
We leave the dock t 9 am. and head for the same fishing spot.
A rendez- vous with the gulls that go straight to the food place. We only
need to follow the gulls to be, after 20 minutes, among large "mangianze".
We decide to stay no more than two hours there for the same fishing
of the previous days and then to go near the shore for a not conventional
fishing session for bluefish and leerfish.
At 1:15 pm. we are over 13,5 mt of water and we start trolling with
our fly rods.
We have a 40 lbs. steel shock tippet in one of the rods and and an
Orvis 0,53mm. fluorocarbon shocker (you can damage your teeth trying
to cut this stuff) in the other. The fly it's incredible: an imitation
of a 40 cm. (1 kg) chub mackerel. The fly looks good in the water and we
can clearly see it under the calm flat sea surface.
I were still unaware of the hard lesson that I were about to receive.
After 10 minute trolling I feel the touch of a fish. Unespected, unusual
and sudden. Not a stroke but a subtle take and I see that after the subtle
take my not conventional fly is clean cut in half. A surgical operation
by a merciless sea's killer. With super
sharp teeth the large bluefish did it and I felt almost nothing. With an
heart attack and an adrenaline discharge leaving me breathles, still incredulous
for the scene, I told to my friend Paolo what just happened. But
it's not the end of the story. Still having the fly's head tied I have
the hope for a return of the monster. And for real the beast comes again.
I see a boil when the fish change direction and decide to come back to
complete his work. Both me and Paolo look at the fish that move the water
with its back for three times and finally reach the fly. My heart is full
of joy: if he take the fly I can catch it. If he take and turn back, nothing
can avoid an hard fight. But, what happens? He engulf the whole thing and
clean cut the tippet leaving me no time to strike. At 1:15 and 40 seconds
the life lesson is done. An eternity long 40 seconds. We turn pale and
cant's decide if cry or curse and need almost an hour to return apparently
calm ( but we still think abou this...)
The day is not at the end. In the evening we humbly come back
to the dock but another emotion waits for us: leerfish. In 1 meter deep
water they decide to give a show of strenght. The show it's one good for
the “National Geographic”. The sea if flat calm and we see sudden
40/50 cm. waves (waves, not wakes) esploding, caused by leerfish chasing
a school of 1 to 2 kg mullets. The sea opens when they pass and the silence
is broken by the noise of their tails in the surface.
We are very grateful to have been in such generous place, near home
and equal to its reputation.
The final balance
it really positive.
In spite of the damned african high atmospheric pressure and the tropical
water temperature the estuary gave us strong emotions.
The Ebro Delta is a very good Mediterranean fishing spot starting in
june but best in september and actober, when there is dorado, and the chub
mackerels, frigate mackerels and bonitos are in their best moment and there
is plenty of leerfish, amberjacks and bluefish.
Thanks to our friend Juan, prodigal with help and suggestions. The place
it's easy to reach from most European countries and worth to visit.
Useful info:
Tackle:
-Rods: 9’ft 8-9-10 weight, we mostly used the #9 , and I suggest
rods not very stiff. I used a Sage RPLXi. I also suggest a #12 weight rod
in the case you encounter some of the larger fish that live around the
estuary.
-Reels: saltwater resistant with a good reserve of 30 lbs.backing.
-Lines: sinking tip like Teeny or Airflo, 200 to 500 grains but
also intermediate and floaters for surface fishing and popper action.
-Leaders: braided ( like those tied by Rinaldin Antonio ) with
fluorocarbon tippets 20 to 80 lbs. and 40 lbs. steel wire shockers.
-Clothing and accesories: depending on the season you can need
stripping gloves, shoes without laces that can foul the line while casting,
polarized sunglasses and bogagrip
-Flies: imitations of anchovies, sardines and generic bait fish
in classic colors (we had good results with black over white and krystal
flash as a lateral line and olive, lime and white also with krystal flash);
don't overlook bright colored flies like pink, yellow, etc.; our flies
measured from 5/6 cm. to 18/20 cm. with #6 to # 4/0 hooks.
-Boats: Garbi sl. tel/fax 0034 977489231 mobil 0034607207522
- Mr. Julio
-Hotel: Paca - Urbanizacion Riumar - La Cava Deltebre tel 0034 977
267394
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